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Troubleshooting

Solar pump control box are either 36V-48V or 96V-110V :

 

 

If your controller is indicating ERR.1 or Low Power, try the following troubleshooting steps. Note that if your controller is indicating ERR.1 or Low Power, there will be no voltage or power to the pump motor.

 

  1. Firstly, check your panel connection and make sure that the voltage is sufficient. If the voltage is low, it is likely the solar panels have not been connected properly or the panels are faulty.

  2. Open your control box and check the speed knob. Make sure that the speed is turned all the way clockwise at maximum pumping power.

  3. Check the motor electrical cable and ensure that there is no obvious damage or corrosion. If any part of the 3-wire cable is damaged, the pump will not run properly and the low power light on the control box will turn on. The best way to check your cabling is with a digital multimeter with the dial turned on to the resistance or ohm (Ω) position. a. First, open up your control box. Turn the power switch off on the control box. b. Then use a screwdriver to loosen the screws to remove your 3 pump wires. c. Using the probes of the multimeter, connect each of the two probes to any 2 wires (eg, the blue wire and the black wire) and obtain an ohm (Ω) reading. Depending on the length of your extension wire, you should get an ohm (Ω) reading between 1-3 ohm. Now connect the two probes to any 2 alternate wires (eg, the brown and black wire) - you should get an ohm (Ω) reading which is pretty close to your first ohm (Ω) reading, ideally within 1 ohm (Ω) of the first reading. If either your first or second ohm (Ω) reading results in an open or OL reading then see step (d) below. If you have obtained two ohm readings (Ω) which are relatively close together, then proceed to troubleshooting test 5. d. If any of your ohm (Ω) readings from the pump wires are open, then either (i) there may be an issue with your pump motor; or (ii) there is a bad splice between the pump wire and extension wire (ie. damage to the pump wires at the joining point between the pump wire and the extension cable). To determine this, take the wire from the pump motor and cut it right before the joining point. Then repeat steps (a) to (c) above using the 3 pump wires. If you are able to obtain two ohm readings (Ω) which are relatively close together, then you will need to re-splice the joining cable. If you obtain an open reading, then it is time to replace your pump motor. Our pumps come with a 24 month back to base warranty so you can send this back to us for replacement if your pump is still under warranty.

  4. If you have checked the above, the low power light is still on and you have a helical screw pump, then you may have a worn out rotor. After a long period of usage, particularly if your water has debris, the pump rotor will slowly wear out and require replacement. All our pump packages come complete with a spare replacement rotor and stators. Click here to buy a replacement rotor or stators. Click here for the rotor replacement diagram. If the low power light is still on and you have a centrifugal pump, then you should separate the pump and the motor, then connect the motor directly with the control box and retest.

  5. Check the bearing in your motor. You can do this by removing the pump end from the motor and testing the motor directly with the control box.  

 

If your controller is indicating Well.L or Tank.F but you have checked that the well is not low or the tank is not full, then you should try the following steps to troubleshoot to test if your sensors are working:

  1. To do these tests, open the cover of your control box and make sure your pump is fully submerged in water (you can do this by pulling your pump up and placing it in a large bucket of water). If you turn on your pump while it is not submerged in water, you may wear out your pump rotor if the pump is running without water for more than 10 seconds.

  2. Then, turn off your controller.

  3. If your controller was indicating Well. L, then use a screwdriver to loosen the screws to remove your low well sensor wires from the controller. Use a jumper wire between COM1 and WH in place of the low well sensor wires at the controller to override this function (the control box will come with a jumper wire bridged between COM1 and WH as the factory default setting). Then turn your controller back on.

Once you have overridden your low well sensor, if the pump is working and running, then there is no issue with the pump controller and it is likely an issue with your sensor or pressure switch (if you are using one). If you are using a pressure switch, you will need to separately test your low well sensor and your pressure switch to identify the issue. If your controller is still indicating Well. L, then there may be an issue with the controller. Give us a call to discuss next steps and if your controller is still under warranty, you may send it back to us for a replacement.

  1. If your controller was indicating Tank F and you have checked that the tank full sensor is not submerged in water, then use a screwdriver to remove the tank full sensor wires. Once you have done this, turn your controller back on. If your Tank F. light is still on, then there may be an issue with your controller - give us a call to discuss next steps and if your controller is still under warranty, you may send it back to us for a replacement. If your pump is working and running, then there is no issue with the pump controller and you will need to replace your tank full sensor.

 

If the problem persists or if you have any questions about the troubleshooting steps above, please contact our team via email at sales@tuhorse.com.au or call us at (02) 8005 2823 or 0414236336